Hi it's Nico🤠,

There is a lot of confusion and misinformation about the different terms "Full Grain", "Top Grain" and "Genuine Leather" so I thought I'd grab my iPad and make a sketch for you.

Let's start with the beginning. This is a cross-section of a bovine skin which includes 3 different layers: the grain, the junction between grain/corium and the corium.
(and the flesh but this is just for you to understand that we are looking at the skin from a cross-sectioned view)

The Grain: the outermost layer of the hide, very high fiber density.

Grain/Corium Junction: the layer of skin that joins the grain and the corium, intermediate fiber density.

Corium: the last layer of skin before the flesh, very low fiber density.

Why does fiber density matter? Because the denser the structure, the more resistant the skin. Loose fibers are weak and can be torn very easily.

Full Grain Leather: "La crème de la crème", the best cut of leather that you can get.

Pros:

• The high density of fibers makes the leather more resistant and durable over time
• More breathable because the natural external pores of the skin have been preserved
• It will develop the most stunning patina over time!!
  (What is patina? A soft sheen that develops through use and exposure on the surface of the material which provides a character, a personality, to the product. Think about your grandpa's old briefcase and its beautiful used leather color, that's patina!) 

Cons:

• The most expensive leather of the 3 types. Yes quality is pricey.
• Will show "defects" on the skin. I don't love to use that word because there are not really defects but rather unique expressions of an animal's life. We are very used to perfectly uniform items but the reality of living species is different. If you are looking for perfectly looking leather then this might not be for you!

Top Grain Leather: the imperfections of the skin are sanded in order to get a perfectly uniform result, but this leather looses the high density fibers once sanded. It is the second best choice of leather.

Pros:

• Cheaper than full grain
• Uniform looking leather. No imperfections. Can be embossed into any grain.

Cons:

• Less durable because it is missing the exterior grain with all the dense fibers
• Less breathable
• Less patina

Genuire Leather / Suede: Is Genuine Leather Real Leather? Yes, BUT it is the lowest quality of real leather available. This type of leather can be sanded or buffed as well. "Genuine leather" is often used by low-quality manufacturers to make customers believe this is real leather. It is indeed real leather but the least desirable of the 3 layers you can get.

Pros:

• Cheapest leather you can get, very affordable

Cons:

• Least durable
• No patina at all
• Will not age well or last long.

It is important to mention that Suede Leather is made from genuine leather and is quite appreciate in the leather craft world. Indeed, when a good tannery transforms this low-grade leather with care, it can end up being a beautiful piece of leather.

I always say it but I will say it again! We are very fortunate nowadays to have the most wonderful leathers available for us to use. If you would like to learn more about leather craft, click HERE to visit the Online Leather School.

Cheers,

Nico🤠