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The Wreck of the Metta Catharina & Russian Leather Revival

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Russian Hatch Leather Cuir de Russie

The story of this ship is one that changed the world of leathercraft forever.

In December 1786, the Metta Catharina set sail from St. Petersburg, bound for Genoa, Italy. However, adverse weather conditions forced the ship to seek shelter in Plymouth Sound, England. Caught in the grip of a fierce storm, the vessel succumbed to the relentless fury of the sea, sinking beneath the waves and disappearing into obscurity. The ship was carrying hundreds of reindeer russian hatch leather rolls.

200 years later, divers from a local club found the ship and the rolls of leather, fully preserved. Incredible but true. The russian hides were like new, after almost two centuries under water.

Amidst the wreckage of the Metta Catharina lay a treasure trove preserved by the unforgiving depths—a cache of Russian leather. Renowned for its exceptional quality and durability, Russian leather owed its remarkable endurance to the presence of birch oil. This natural preservative, derived from the bark of birch trees, imbued the leather with a unique resilience that allowed it to withstand the ravages of time.

The tanning techniques to make russian leather had been lost during the Russian Revolution. There was not one single specialized tannery remaining in the whole country. The world had lost the secret recipe of russian leather forever, until...

 In recent years, the legacy of Russian leather has been revived thanks to the dedication and expertise of J & FJ Baker & Co Tannery in Colyton, England. Through a process lasting approximately 12 months, involving the immersion of the hides in a solution of oak, willow, and birch bark, Baker Tannery succeeded in recreating the unparalleled quality and aroma of Russian leather.

The moment I unwrapped these treasures from Baker's at my atelier, I was greeted by an intoxicating aroma that evoked images of distant lands and bygone eras.

Describing the scent of leather is no easy task, but those fortunate enough to experience Russian leather firsthand often speak of its unique and captivating aroma. Some liken it to a blend of tar and incense, while others describe it as warm, earthy, and deeply satisfying. For me, it's a scent that lingers in the air, enveloping the senses in a veil of nostalgia and intrigue.

I ordered the skins in black and vintage brown and I still have to pick a favorite. The leather is gorgeous and smells like no other (trust me I have smelled hundreds if not thousands of other leathers)!

The skins came with some "white stuff" on it, which is actually tallow.

Tallow, derived from rendered fat of cattle or sheep, serves as a common conditioning and preservation agent in the leather industry. Its application aids in softening leather, augmenting its flexibility and longevity.

Upon treatment, the fat permeates the leather, replenishing lost natural oils from the tanning process. This infusion guards against potential cracking or desiccation over time. For instance, the application of a tallow-based conditioner to leather boots can enhance comfort and longevity by imbuing the material with softness and flexibility.

Additionally, tallow lends leather a distinctive sheen, further enhancing its appeal. In essence, tallow serves as a proven method for preserving and enriching the inherent qualities of leather.

 

I have said it before, but I will say it again! What a time to be alive! We are really lucky nowadays to have access to wonderful leathers from all over the world! Working with such incredible materials is a true blessing!

Anyhow, I will be making custom orders for my clients very soon with the coveted "Cuir de Russie". If you would like to see my creations, they will be posted on my instagram: @ateliergrinda.

Cheers,
Nico🤠

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